Deionized Water (Aqua), Purified and deionized water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Derived from coconut oil and glycerin and is considered an excellent emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient. It forms a film that prevents moisture loss without being comedogenic as it is non-greasy. It makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is very gentle and super well tolerated by every skin type. Safety assessments have deemed capric/caprylic triglyceride safe in cosmetic formulations in concentrations with sometimes up to 50%.
Cetearyl alcohol, Fatty alcohol (the good kind of alcohol that moisturizes your skin instead of drying and irritating it) and a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or made synthetically. Cetearyl alcohol is an emollient that is gentle, safe, and good for the skin. It also makes your skin feel smooth and soft.
Stearic Acid, A versatile fatty acid that functions as an emollient and cleansing ingredient. It has been shown to protect the skin’s surface against trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and strengthen the skin’s protective barrier. Stearic acid is very safe even in concentrations of over 30% according to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR).
Glyceryl stearate, A compound that is found naturally in the human body. It functions as an emollient, surfactant, and emulsifier in skin care products. It supports the benefits of skin-replenishing ingredients such as ceramides and fatty acids. Its moisturizing properties help skin look and feel softer and smoother. It also forms a barrier on the skin, helping prevent water loss.
PEG-120 Glyceryl Stearate, Very versatile oil-in-water emulsifier that creates silky smooth, ultra-light emulsions. Gives the product a soft and creamy feel.
Sorbitan Stearate, Vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. Chemically speaking, it comes from the attachment of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol (sugar) molecule) with the fatty acid Stearic Acid, which creates a partly water (the sorbitan part) and partly oil soluble (stearic part) molecule. It is completely non-irritating and non-comedogenic.
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), A plant lipid extracted from the karite tree. It is used as an emollient in cosmetics and has smoothing properties for dry skin. Shea butter doesn’t just have a rich texture; it’s also a rich source of antioxidants, including quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin. These flavonoids (being found in green tea as well by the way) are strongly anti-inflammatory and have anti-aging properties. Shea butter also contains skin-replenishing fatty acids (stearic and linoleic). It has a comedogenic rating of 0-2 out of 5, meaning it is non-comedogenic and therefore suitable for combating dryness caused by retinoids without exacerbating acne-prone skin.
Cannabis Sativa Oil (Hemp Oil), Used as an emollient and to supply the skin with omega fatty acids, which are very important for replenishing the skin and strengthening its surface against moisture loss. Specifically, hemp seed oil contains the omega-3 fatty acid alpha-linolenic acid and the omega-6 fatty acid linoleic acid. Hemp seed oil also contains beneficial phospholipids, plant sterols, amino acids (it’s especially high in the amino acid arginine) and is a rich source of antioxidant vitamin E.
Mango/Watermelon/Coconut Extract, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Extract: Loaded with many antioxidants such as vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, vitamin B6, copper and folate. All this contributes to reducing signs of sun damage and premature skin aging by reducing oxidation of your skin cells. Mango extract also contains the xanthonoid mangiferin that helps protect your body from cellular damage and has been found to be antimicrobial, antiallergic, anticarcinogenic, and immunomodulatory.
Citrullus lanatus (Watermelon) Extract: Contains the vitamins A, C, and E, which promote collagen production and protect from free radical damage. It also has anti-aging, hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties.
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Extract: Coconut has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. Furthermore, its rich fatty acid profile makes it a powerful emollient that locks in moisture and prevents trans-epidermal water loss.
C13-14 Isoparaffin , Isolated petroleum-derived compound with a carbon chain length of 13-14. It is similar to the broader mineral oil that consists of C15-50 chains. C13-14 Isoparaffin is an occlusive, which means that it creates a barrier on the skin that prevents trans-epidermal water loss (this is how the skin dries out – the water on your skin evaporates into the surrounding air). Furthermore, it is completely non-irritating to the skin. This is the reason why it is also used extensively in medical topical products for sensitive and allergy-prone skin. Contrary to common belief, it is not just a “by-product” of oil refining but rather a specifically isolated form of petroleum. There is no scientific data whatsoever showing that the pure, cosmetic-grade version bears any harmful potential and dermatologists agree that it is a great and safe moisturizer. Furthermore, it is non-comedogenic, contrary to what is often purported (it has a comedogenic rating of 0-2/5).
α-Tocopheryl acetate (Vitamin E), Esterified version of vitamin E, making it much more stable with a longer shelf-life. It’s the most commonly used version of vitamin E in cosmetics. It penetrates the skin where it is converted to vitamin E, unfolding its effects as strong anti-oxidant and providing protection against the sun’s UV rays .It lowers the production of sunburn cells, reduces the damage caused by UVB rays and inhibits photocarcinogenesis (the emergence of skin cancer caused by sunlight). It synergizes with Vitamin C perfectly, as Vitamin C protects against the UVA spectrum, so both together cover UVA+UVB to yield broad-spectrum protection.
Carbomer, Carbomers (also known as Polyacrylic acid PAA) are polymers derived from acrylic acid. They stabilize suspended solids in liquids, prevent emulsions from separating, and give gels a nice viscous and non-tacky consistency.
Allantoin, Seldomly mentioned compound in the skincare community even though it is one of the safest and most effective allrounders to exist. It has keratolytic, moisturizing, soothing, skin-protecting and anti-inflammatory properties. Allantoin also promotes the renewal of epidermal cells and accelerates wound healing. It dissolves the intercellular cement that holds the cornified cells together, helping the natural desquamation (the process of old, damaged skin cells falling off) of the stratum corneum and increasing skin smoothness. This also ensures that pores do not get clogged, therefore preventing acne. The moisturizing effect results from its ability to increase the water content bound to the intercellular matrix. It also forms complexes and neutralizes many irritants and sensitizing agents and is, therefore, a great addition to all kinds of skincare products. It also occurs naturally in the human body as a byproduct of urea.
Disodium EDTA, Salt of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (commonly known as EDTA). It is a chelating agent, meaning it prevents ingredients in a formula from binding with trace elements (mainly minerals) that can be present in water or other ingredients. This action enhances the stability of cosmetics formulas and synergizes with preservatives since EDTA ingredients bond with mineral ions that microorganisms need to survive. For these purposes, disodium EDTA is very safe as it is non-irritating, non-carcinogenic and cannot penetrate the skin.
Phenoxyethanol, Organic compound that is germicidal and therefore used as a preservative. Phenoxyethanol occurs naturally such as in green tea. It is a safe and gentle replacement for parabens, which are used frequently in skincare but have been found to be irritating, possibly carcinogenic, and interfering with your hormone receptors (so-called endocrine disruptors).
Ethylhexylglycerin Commonly found in cosmetics alongside phenoxyethanol because ethylhexylglycerin boosts the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol and other preservatives. It also has a great texture making products "feel nice" on the skin. Furthermore, it’s an effective deodorant and emollient (moisturizer).
