Cocos Nucifera (Coconut Oil), A plant oil with a very unique fatty acid profile. Unlike many plant oils that mostly contain unsaturated fatty acids, coconut oil is mostly saturated (mostly containing Lauric Acid). The saturated nature of coconut oil also means that it is ideal for dry skin types and a great moisturizer. A double-blind study confirmed that coconut oil is as effective in treating xerosis (very dry skin) as mineral oil. However, it is not quite sure if it is good or bad for acne-prone skin. Lauric Acid has research showing that it kills acne-causing bacteria P. acnes but at the same time, coconut oil has a high comedogenic rating (4 out of 5). Anecdotal evidence is very mixed, so it might be worthwhile for people who are prone to acne to try it out and see whether it is helpful or detrimental. Coconut oil helps with wound healing and it has some antifungal activity.
Deionized Water (Aqua), Purified and deionized water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.
Sodium Hydroxide, Chemical name for lye. It is used for a process called saponification which turns fats and fatty acids into carboxylate salts and alcohols. This is crucial for the production of soap, which is the reason why you will find this compound in almost every soap you encounter.
Fragrance,
Kojic Acid, A naturally occurring chemical produced from different types of fungi and by-product in the fermentation process of soy sauce and rice wine. Kojic acid is an extremely effective brightener and can completely reverse postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. It inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme that catalyzes the production of melanin, which is the brown pigment in dark spots. It is therefore also used to treat melasma. Furthermore, kojic acid has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects, which is beneficial for acne-prone skin.
Glycerin, Also named Glycerol. Very powerful ingredient that occurs naturally in the outermost layer of our skin (stratum corneum SC). It is a humectant, meaning it attracts water (even water vapor out of the air) and helps our skin to stay hydrated. Glycerin also regulates fluid balance (this is called osmoregulation) It helps to maintain the healthy state of the cell membranes and intracellular lipids (keeping the lipids in a nice liquid crystal state that is optimal for barrier function) It can normalize skin shedding in very dry skin. Glycerine is mildly antimicrobial and antiviral and protects against skin irritation.
Xanthan Gum, A polysaccharide, a type of carbohydrate consisting of several sugar molecules bonded together. It is used as a thickening agent, texture enhancer, and to stabilize emulsions.
Caprylyl Glycol, A multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as commonly used phenoxyethanol. The combination of caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol is called Optiphen, a powerful yet safe preservative that helps your cosmetics to be stable and microbial-free while also giving a very good feel to the finished product. It's a very frequently used combination.
Glucose, As trivial as it may sound and as bad as it is for consumption, this monosaccharide sugar is actually very good for the skin. As a humectant, it has powerful water-binding properties, which helps to keep your skin hydrated. It also helps fade discolorations because the skin metabolizes it to lactic acid, which is a chemical exfoliant. Furthermore, glucose works as a prebiotic to support the skin’s microbiome (the good bacteria on your skin).
Chondrus Crispus (Red Algae), A type of seaweed and a rich source of many nutrients for the skin, including beta-carotene and potent antioxidants zeaxanthin and lutein, which help protect skin from the visible effects of blue light and UV exposure and shield your skin from airborne free radicals and pollutants. The natural polysaccharides, peptides, and amino acids in red algae also help the skin to stay hydrated. Red algae also contain a compound known as carrageenan, which forms a flexible film on the skin that offers further defense against environmental stressors and prevents trans-epidermal water loss.
Phenoxyethanol, Organic compound that is germicidal and therefore used as a preservative. Phenoxyethanol occurs naturally such as in green tea. It is a safe and gentle replacement for parabens, which are used frequently in skin care but have been found to be irritating, possibly carcinogenic and interfering with your hormone receptors (so-called endocrine disruptors).
Ethylhexylglycerin, Commonly found in cosmetics alongside phenoxyethanol because ethylhexylglycerin boosts the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol and other preservatives. It also has a great texture making products „feel nice“ on the skin. Furthermore, it’s an effective deodorant and emollient (moisturizer).
Cocamide DEA, A cleansing agent, foam booster and viscosity builder. If it does not come from a reputable source, it may contain residual content of Diethanolamine, a secondary amine known to be a potential source of harmful nitrosamines. Rated very safe in wash-off products and rated safe in leave-on products for concentrations up to 10%.
Paraffinum Liquidum, Great, versatile and safe moisturizer that is sadly surrounded by many myths and misconceptions. It is also called mineral oil and consists of saturated hydrocarbons with C15-50 chain length. Mineral oil is an occlusive, which means that it creates a barrier on the skin that prevents trans-epidermal water loss (this is how the skin dries out – the water on your skin evaporates into the surrounding air). Furthermore, it is completely non-irritating to the skin. This is the reason why it is also used extensively in medical topical products for sensitive and allergy-prone skin. The bad reputation of mineral oils comes from the narrative that it is a “by-product” of refining crude oil and that it is carcinogenic. While this is true for industrial-grade mineral oil (it contains polycyclic compounds that can cause cancer), this couldn’t be further from the truth for cosmetic and medical-grade mineral oil. It is not just a “by-product” but rather a specifically isolated form of petroleum whereby harmful substances are carefully and thoroughly removed. There is no scientific data whatsoever showing that the pure, cosmetic-grade version bears any harmful potential. Studies also showed that it is non-comedogenic, contrary to what is often purported (it has a comedogenic rating of 0-2/5).
Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) oil One of the best-known essential oils in skincare. It is a very complex chemical mixture consisting of about 100 components, the major ones being terpinene-4-ol (40%), γ-Terpinene (23%) and α-Terpinene (10%). They are the reason for the strong antibacterial, antiviral and antifungal effects. This makes it a well-established anti-acne ingredient because research shows that a 5% tea tree oil gel is about as effective against the acne-causing bacteria called P. acnes as a 5% Benzoyl Peroxide lotion (the standard topical acne medication). Tea tree oil also possesses anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties.
