Deionized Water (Aqua), Purified and deionized water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.
Propanediol, Commonly known as propylene glycol (PG). It is a humectant (helps skin attract water, thus acting as a moisturizer), a compound penetration enhancer, and a solvent. Erroneously, it is often called a skin irritant, however, the scientific consensus is that PG used in small concentrations in cosmetics is completely safe and very effective in combating dry skin. As we age, our skin degrades Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), contributing to wrinkles and flaking. Propylene Glycol can prevent this by binding water from the environment.
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Also known as bladderwrack. Type of seaweed with a lot of antioxidants that help defend the skin’s surface from daily exposure to airborne pollutants. It also has a high concentration of minerals, including sodium and potassium. F. vesiculosus is also famous for its water-binding properties, making it a powerful moisturizer. It is often used in anti-aging products because it can drastically increase the production of collagen (over 200% in some studies, which is more than retinol!). It is therefore a powerful compound to reduce wrinkles and fine lines.
Gold, A strong anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory and a promising compound but scientific research is unfortunately pretty limited. It has been shown though that it is completely safe (unless for the minuscule group of people with metal allergies). It may minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and promote firmness and elasticity of your skin. Other studies have also shown accelerated wound healing, antiseptic properties, and an increase in blood circulation.
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Synthetic version of the very commonly used mineral Mica. Due to its light-reflecting properties, it provides some protection against UV rays. However, it also acts as a supporting compound, increasing product slip and skin adhesion, thus improving skin feel. Contrary to the widespread belief, the synthetic version is actually superior to the naturally occurring mineral because it has fewer impurities, which makes it safer for your skin.
Polyglycerin-10, Essentially ten glycerin molecules attached to each other to form a chain. Just like glycerin, it is a powerful humectant, meaning it attracts water and helps our skin to stay hydrated.
Glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, This is a polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) made up of polyacrylic acid (also known as carbomer) with glycerin attached to it in some places. Due to the combination of carbomer and glycerin, it is a safe and very powerful hydrating agent, being able to draw a lot of water into the skin.
PVM/MA Copolymer, Polymer of alternating methyl vinyl ether and maleic anhydride. Excellent film former with antibacterial properties.
Glycerin, (also named Glycerol). Very powerful ingredient that occurs naturally in the outermost layer of our skin (stratum corneum SC). It is a humectant, meaning it attracts water (even water vapor out of the air) and helps our skin to stay hydrated. Glycerin also regulates fluid balance (this is called osmoregulation). It helps to maintain the healthy state of the cell membranes and intracellular lipids (keeping the lipids in a nice liquid crystal state that is optimal for barrier function). It can normalize skin shedding in very dry skin. Glycerine is mildly antimicrobial and antiviral and protects against skin irritation.
C13 -14 Isoparaffin, Petroleum-derived emollient. This means it forms a barrier on the skin that prevents the loss of moisture to the environment. It also softens the skin and helps with flaking, itchiness, and irritation. Determined very safe.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Used to improve the texture and feel of skincare and cosmetic formulations. It is a copolymer of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Very safe, even concentrations up to 30% found no signs of irritation or toxicity at all.
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Synthetic ingredient made from a chain of polymers and monomers that consist of styrene, methacrylic acid, and an ester. Used as a film former. Safe as it cannot penetrate the skin. However, it does pose a contamination risk if it doesn’t come from a reputable source.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium salt of glycyrrhizin. It is one of the main components of the licorice root and a very potent anti-inflammatory. Used to treat several skin diseases that are connected to inflammation including atopic dermatitis, rosacea, or eczema. Also, it is sebum-regulating, which aids people affected by acne.
Sodium Hyaluronate (Hyaluronic Acid), The sodium form of hyaluronic acid (HA). Most of the time in cosmetics, the terms are used interchangeably as sodium hyaluronate disassociates into a hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution. The benefit of using the sodium form is that it is far more stable and easier to formulate. HA occurs naturally in your skin and acts as a sponge helping the skin to hold onto water to become plump and elastic. It can bind up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it an unbeatable hydrating agent. It is therefore often used as a staple in moisturizing products together with glycerin.
Fragaria Chiloensis (Strawberry) Extract, Packed with anti-oxidant compounds that give the strawberries their color, known as anthocyanins. It also contains saccharides which help hydrate skin. The high vitamin C content in strawberries adds to the antioxidant properties and also acts as an anti-inflammatory. All these compounds combined help the skin to be more resilient against environmental damage. The Ellagic acid contained in strawberries is also a primary antioxidant and has a documented soothing effect on the skin and is prebiotic, meaning it supports the growth of good bacteria, which form a biofilm on your skin, creating your skin barrier. Research has shown ellagic acid can interrupt the pathway that leads to dark spots and therefore may help hyperpigmentation. Last but certainly not least, Fisetin is a compound that has been shown to possess very potent anti-aging properties.
Ci 77491, Iron III oxide (Fe2O3). It has a reflective property that helps even out skin tone. Also, this protects against certain wavelengths of UV light and therefore helps to prevent sun damage. It also serves as a red pigment.
Phenoxyethanol, Organic compound that is germicidal and therefore used as a preservative. Phenoxyethanol occurs naturally such as in green tea. It is a safe and gentle replacement for parabens, which are used frequently in skincare but have been found to be irritating, possibly carcinogenic, and interfering with your hormone receptors (so-called endocrine disruptors).
1,2-Hexanediol, Acts as a humectant and emollient and is therefore a great moisturizer. It also brings a soft and pleasant feel to the formula. Furthermore, it is antibacterial and therefore also functions as a preservative.
Ethylhexylglycerin Commonly found in cosmetics alongside phenoxyethanol because ethylhexylglycerin boosts the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol and other preservatives. It also has a great texture making products "feel nice" on the skin. Furthermore, it’s an effective deodorant and emollient (moisturizer).
